Just behind the Filipino Market also referred to as the handicraft market, you can see rows of people selling barbecued seafood. We Malaysians call it Ikan bakar. You can walk through the Handicraft Market from the main road and you can definitely see those stalls. They are just by the sea. the tables are arranged lengthwise. On one end of the tables, they will display their baked / barbecued seafood, Just like the picture below. With so many stalls, you first have to choose the stall that you want to go for. There are a little over 10 stalls there. I found that the of the seafood between the stalls almost the same. Even the seafood that they sell are almost the same between stalls. So what we did was to choose a stall that has the most people. They are open from 5pm onwards and we normally have our dinner here at 5.30 pm. Sounds early until you find out that sunset is at 6.30pm. After dinner, you head out to catch the sunset on the boardwalk nearby.

Do not be afraid to approach the stall that has the most people even though other stall owners are calling you. Though they may be fighting for business, I never find them harassing. The first time I walked past, I went to one of the stalls and asked for the prices of the fishes, crabs and squids. The person at the stall explained everything and I told her I would come back another day. She didn’t seem to mind. I also see a lot of people taking photos of the places and not eating. They will entertain anyone.

So what if you decide to eat at one particular stall? You see the fish or whatever seafood that fancies you. Points to it and the person at the stall will pick it up on a plate. You can, at this time ask for the price of the seafood before asking it to go on the plate.
The first time I went to eat here, pointing to a fish, I asked the lady what fish was this. She said it is white fish, Ikan Putih. Then I pointed to a red fish and asked her what fish is that. She said it is red fish, ikan merah. Ok, I get the point. They don’t care for the name. All they care about is the size of the fish and that is how the fishes are prized.
With the fish, you can choose to eat with white rice and plain water is free, if you dared to drink. They also make simple hot beverage like tea and coffee.
Look at the picture above. Those long things are really 6 inch long prawns. They cost RM25 a pop. Tempting as it is, they are too expensive for me. The smaller ones are Rm15.

Once you have selected the seafood that you want to eat, you take a seat while they take your selection for one final round of reheating. This ensures that you have a hot meal as well as making sure that the food is a little bit more safer to eat. You do wonder how long that fish has been sitting there while people walk past. The food is served burning hot. All the burning is done at the other end of the stall. You can see them doing the burning.

And these are the 6 inch prawns before they are burnt. Very fresh huge prawns. Despite the price, I see a lot of people eating these prawns. I guess if you have gone so far, all the way to the almost the tip of borneo, the least you can do is eat everything exotic.

We liked that place so much, we went there twice. Different stalls of course. The first meal, we ordered one medium sized fish and a crab. Fish was RM20, crab was RM10 a pop. What I find interesting was there was not particular sauce that you eat with the seafood. Well they do provide you with this chili sauce, top left in the picture above. The chili sauce is mostly vinegar, chili, garlic and onion. At least that is what I can taste. But strangely, they also have this compartmentalized plate which has lime, salt, sugar and cili padi. Then then is another basket of thick soya sauce, light soya sauce and vinegar. Then there are containers of seaweed, preserved vegetables, what looked like onions and so on. Those things inside the containers are condiments and they cost RM1 a box.
So what happens is that you are supposed to make your own sauce for the meal. Apparently different people have different taste and with the provided ingredients, they make their own concoction. With the meal, they will give you a 3rd plate which you are to mix whatever you want.
As an example, some locals sitting in front of me mixed dark soya sauce and cili padi into the 3rd plate. and on yeah, you use you finger to mix the stuff around. Neat.
We being tourist who have no idea how to mix things around, we just ate with the provided chili sauce.

On the second meal, 2 days later, I had what looked like a cuttlefish. RM7 this one. This is not chewy at all.
Everyone is also given a cup and a small basin (top right photo above). There are jugs of plain water, if you dare to drink. The cup is for the plain water and the basin is for you to wash your hands. Remember that, the basin is NOT for the kicap!. We were skeptical about the origins of the plain water but in the middle of a meal like that, water is necessary and we drank it anyway. So far, so good. But we did take some hep A and B shots before going there. Typhoid is what we were afraid of but so far so good. Everyone drinks the same waster and no one was harmed in any way.

And we also called 2 crabs. No rice. The crabs are so fresh that we extract the meat out from the shell by gently knocking the shell on a plate. These are sea crabs so they come ashore already dead. Freshness is essential. When a crab is fresh, the meat does not stick to the shell. Despite the method of cooking which may cause the meat to dry up, the seafood served were moist and tasty with a little burnt taste.
If you are in KK, this is ikan bakar is something you should not miss. Seriously, just ignore everything, trust your senses. You know you want it.